Off with his head! - It's at the machine shop!!!!
OfflineHooray! The head is off and at the machine shop! The one stud that
didn't want to come out was up high enough it was just in the head,
not in the block. Tommy Goza (Goza machine shop) got it out with an
air tool. Just carbon buildup was keeping it stuck. The heater control
valve and assembly came right off - I just didn't "convince" it
enough. I left the broken exhaust manifold stud in, the shop will pull
it.
So - at first look the machine shop owner said it didn't appear to
have anything wrong with it at all. Looked in great shape, and
whatever white smoke I was seeing was probably from a blown head
gasket. My fingers are crossed.
At first glance the cylinders looked nice - I need to take out the
calipers to measure and take a much closer look. I did mess up in
taking off the head and did not lift it directly up - I slid it just a
bit - and now have junk in the cylinders. So - to clean 'em out - use
a shop vac? Beg and borrow a compressor and airgun? What's the best
way to make sure you have absolutely no junk in the cylinders?
Since the block is pretty bare, I think I'll order some engine paint,
degrease it and touch it up. Hopefully I won't have it this bare
again! (And it's a pretty good time to rebuild that carb, too. The
carb is on a plastic bag with my other stuff, rebuild kit is next to
it - and a bucket of carb cleaner just so happens to be nearby. Funny
how it worked out that way!)
Also - since I'm seeing carbon buildup on the studs, I'm guessing I
need to clean out the holes they go in. Should I run a tap through
them? Would a tap clean out the junk, or should I use something else?
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Bruce Griffis wrote:
> I did mess up in
> taking off the head and did not lift it directly up - I slid it just a
> bit - and now have junk in the cylinders. So - to clean 'em out - use
> a shop vac? Beg and borrow a compressor and airgun? What's the best
> way to make sure you have absolutely no junk in the cylinders?
Eh. Though Smokey Yunick said 'no engine ever died from being too clean'
I wouldn't freak out if the junk that fell in is largely combustion
byproducts. Metal and sand, OK worry more. A bit of carbon isn't that
abrasive and will get pumped out.
Compressed air may drive it in. Shop vac with a small hose will get 99%
of it out.
> Also - since I'm seeing carbon buildup on the studs, I'm guessing I
> need to clean out the holes they go in. Should I run a tap through
> them? Would a tap clean out the junk, or should I use something else?
I run a tap through all holes always, and often a die down bolts and
studs, then use the right lube or a high-temp anti-seize. It never
hurts, and usually helps. Crud will prevent torque wrenches from working
right, readings will be all off. Maintenance is easier. All my exhaust
nuts and studs just come out and never break. (I use relatively
expensive nickel antiseize on everything, Permatex?, an 8oz jar has
lasted a few years now.
When I built my 232 I actually made a little clean room from plastic
sheet. Washed the parts in soap and water, washed my hands, clean
clothes, clean tools, clean oil, assembled the bottom end all in one
shot and got it sealed up. Changed the synth oil religiously and 20
years later, still 15 - 20 psi oil pressure at idle and zero cylinder
scoring.
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On Wed, Jul 23, 2008 at 4:12 PM, Tom Jennings wrote:
> Compressed air may drive it in. Shop vac with a small hose will get 99%
> of it out.
>
Cool. Will attack it carefully with a vac!
>
> I run a tap through all holes always, and often a die down bolts and
> studs, then use the right lube or a high-temp anti-seize.
Gives me an excuse to get some nice new taps for the tap wrench I made
in highschool. It's been sitting in my toolbox forever just waiting
for an excuse to use it. Nothing's cooler than a lathe, tool bits,
some cold rolled steel and a knurling tool.
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Just make sure they check that head for trueness (flatness) and cracks! If the head gasket blew and it was run very hot. It's a relatively common occurrence -- gasket blows due to loose bolts then runs hot and warps head just enough it won't seal again wihtout a slight shave. Remember to retorque that head every other year and you'll not have that problem!
--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)
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