Depends
Flashing liht underneath is for parking brake.
One in cluster is controlled by the switch in the block on the firewall under the heater motor.
It can be reset, it trips when pressure drops on one side of the brake system.
I can honestly say I tripped mine years ago and have never felt the urge to reset it. I simply unplugged the wire.
No harm if the brakes are good and you know they are not leaking.

Be careful with air shocks on the Ameircan body. More than a light boost to level it will eventually cause the bayonet end to punch up through the trunkfloor. The metal in that area was not designed to carry weight.

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Larry Goltry
>
>
>
> I've got a '69 Rambler. Last weekend my brother put air shocks on the rear. It
> looks great, but now the brake "dummy light" is staying on. I'm thinking that
> some wiring probably just got disturbed. The brakes are working fine as are the
> lights, and signals etc.. I have scoured the TSM for what the dummy light is an
> indicator of. Master cylinder, fluid level, parking break? Anybody know?
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Depends on the year, but some are self-resetting, some require removing
th switch (easy enough). It's odd that it happened when you were under
the rear of the car; check for rear brake line leaks, especially that
rubber hose down from the chassis to the axle.

Wrambler242 at comcast dot net wrote:

> Be careful with air shocks on the Ameircan body. More than a light
> boost to level it will eventually cause the bayonet end to punch up
> through the trunkfloor.

Probably any AMC. I ruined them on my 62 Ambassador years ago. 72 Hornet
had cracked upper mounts from someone else's folly. I bolted in braces
in my 63 Classic.

The extra force just flexes the stamped steel mount until it stress
fractures.
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